Réserve de la Comtesse Vertical (2020-2022)

This has a dark currant- and blackberry-filled core supported by a racy graphite spine that runs from start to finish, adding energy and cut. Reveals sweet tobacco, chestnut and tar hints on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2025 through 2035.

The second wine from this talented team, the 2020 Pichon Comtesse Reserve is worth seeking out. I always find this wine to offer loads of pleasure. Possessing the elegance and purity of the vintage (as well as this estate), it has a pretty perfume of red and blue fruits , some spring flowers and graphite on the nose, ultra-fine tannins, and an already accessible, delicious profile. It's perfect for drinking over the coming 10-12 years.

Bright ruby colour with violet reflections. As with many second wines in Pauillac in 2020, you should expect fairly high tannins, although they are fine in construction and softly-expressed when things open up. Cocoa bean and coffee smoke on the finish. This is seductive but underplayed.

Firm and polished tannins highlight this second wine from Pichon Lalande, with dark berry, chocolate, meat and cedar character as well as lead pencil. Very polished with structure and length. Needs time to soften. Better after 2027.

Wafting from the glass with notes of blackberries, minty cassis, petals and pencil shavings, the 2021 Resèrve de la Comtesse is medium to full-bodied, ample and polished, with a fleshy core of fruit, beautifully refined tannins and a seamless, succulent profile. This beautifully balanced wine will drink well on release. It's one of the most successful second wines produced this year.

Engaging, with a flurry of violet, alder and black tea notes leading off, followed by a solidly built core of black currant and sweet bay leaf elements. The finish reveals warm earth and cast iron details. A textbook Pauillac. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2026 through 2034.

Readers shouldn't overlook the 2022 Resèrve de la Comtesse, a lovely wine that's one of the most accomplished second wines of Bordeaux. Offering up aromas of sweet minty berries, burning embers, pencil shavings and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, lavish and aromatic, with an almost exotic core of fruit, powdery tannins and a penetrating finish.

Gorgeous aromatics, vibrant but deep too. Tannins make the impact straight away, there’s good density here, clear concentration this is carrying some heft in the really quite potent dark fruit flavours, spiced edges and sense of heat that comes through the underneath. Broad but focussed, definitely more streamlined than wide and plush, with almost chewy tannins but that have a pure cool blue fruit, liquorice and slate grip to them giving them edges and creating the linear focus. Feels well constructed, still on the tense nervous side but it has an appealing juicy grip too. 3.8pH. 50% grand vin, 50% second wine. 3.8pH. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.

Deep purple-hued, the 2022 Pichon Comtesse Reserve is based on 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, raised 14 months in 50% new barrels. It's beautifully done and has a ripe, layered, yet still classic style in its ripe black and blue fruits, graphite, and floral notes. It's medium to full-bodied and has a round, layered mouthfeel and ripe tannins. I’d be thrilled to drink a bottle any time over the coming 15+ years.