Château Branaire-Ducru Vertical (2019-2021)

The 2019 Branaire-Ducru unwinds in the glass with aromas of raspberries, blackcurrants, sweet soil tones and hints of cigar wrapper, rose petals and cedar. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's youthfully tightly wound, with terrific concentration, tangy acids, powdery tannins and a long, saline finish. While this is a little reserved out of the gates, its energy and classical proportions will richly reward bottle age.

Very clear fruit character of blackcurrants, orange peel and spices. Some walnut, too. It’s full-bodied with integrated, polished tannins and shows finesse and focus. Love the focused fruit at the end of this. Strength with finesse. Give it four to five years of bottle age. Try after 2024.

Lifted floral notes are combined with dark currant fruit flavour and fine tannins on the palate. A very elegant Branaire-Ducru and relatively restrained in the context of 2019. Will appeal to those who prefer the more subtle style of Bordeaux, with more nuance than up-front power and weight. The fruit is clean and pure, and there is a lovely freshness on the finish. Good mid-term drinking.

Plenty of blackberry, blueberry, lead pencil and violet aromas here that follow through to a full body, with ultra-fine tannins that run the length of the wine. So integrated and polished.Changes a lot in the glass. Thoughtful young red. Try after 2027.

Sleek and seductive, quite highly charged with such a potent perfume and black bramble fruit aroma on both the nose and palate. Silky, smooth, suave and confident, this is a supremely gorgeous wine. Not weighty as such, but there is intensity in the layers of fruit and acidity with a cool, refreshing core underpinned by salty stones and liquorice elements. Elegant and refined, pulsing with energy, charm, delicacy and detail.

The 2020 Branaire-Ducru will require more patience than the supple, sensual 2019, but it is another strong effort for this overperforming estate. Wafting from the glass with aromas of crème de cassis, plums, pencil shavings, petals, burning embers and discreet hints of new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a concentrated core of vibrant fruit and fine but youthfully firm tannins that assert themselves on the gently chewy finish.

The 2021 Branaire-Ducru has realized all the potential it showed en primeur. Wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, plums, menthol, violets and baking chocolate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and suave, with a velvety attack that segues into a deep, fleshy palate. This is especially impressive in the context of the vintage.

Purple and pink flowers on the nose, sweet strawberries and cherries and some milk chocolate notes. Delicate and poised on the palate, this has an air of elegance and refinement from the first sip, the sleek tannins giving support and a fine grip while the herbal Cabernet and Petit Verdot touches give spice, bright summer berry fruit and tension. This has a good core and persistence of flavour that doesn't let up, not weighty of particularly dense, but well defined and focussed. Stylish and glamorous in the best way while being understated - a difficult feat in 2021. Totally moreish and just so well constructed and delivered. A top wine! You get energy and precision here but it's the understated character I like so much, it just grows and grows quietly and then leaves you with the lingering impression of the beauty of St-Julien.

The plum, chocolate and orange-peel aromas and flavors are all so attractive, and the tannins are creamy and bright with a medium velvety texture and a fine finish. Nice acidity at the end. A blend of 66% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot, 6.5% cabernet franc and 5.5% petit verdot. Very drinkable now but will be better in two or three years.