Château Branaire-Ducru Vertical (2019-2021)

Plenty of blackberry, blueberry, lead pencil and violet aromas here that follow through to a full body, with ultra-fine tannins that run the length of the wine. So integrated and polished.Changes a lot in the glass. Thoughtful young red. Try after 2027.

Sleek and seductive, quite highly charged with such a potent perfume and black bramble fruit aroma on both the nose and palate. Silky, smooth, suave and confident, this is a supremely gorgeous wine. Not weighty as such, but there is intensity in the layers of fruit and acidity with a cool, refreshing core underpinned by salty stones and liquorice elements. Elegant and refined, pulsing with energy, charm, delicacy and detail.

The 2020 Branaire-Ducru will require more patience than the supple, sensual 2019, but it is another strong effort for this overperforming estate. Wafting from the glass with aromas of crème de cassis, plums, pencil shavings, petals, burning embers and discreet hints of new oak, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a concentrated core of vibrant fruit and fine but youthfully firm tannins that assert themselves on the gently chewy finish.

The 2021 Branaire-Ducru has realized all the potential it showed en primeur. Wafting from the glass with aromas of dark berries, plums, menthol, violets and baking chocolate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and suave, with a velvety attack that segues into a deep, fleshy palate. This is especially impressive in the context of the vintage.

Purple and pink flowers on the nose, sweet strawberries and cherries and some milk chocolate notes. Delicate and poised on the palate, this has an air of elegance and refinement from the first sip, the sleek tannins giving support and a fine grip while the herbal Cabernet and Petit Verdot touches give spice, bright summer berry fruit and tension. This has a good core and persistence of flavour that doesn't let up, not weighty of particularly dense, but well defined and focussed. Stylish and glamorous in the best way while being understated - a difficult feat in 2021. Totally moreish and just so well constructed and delivered. A top wine! You get energy and precision here but it's the understated character I like so much, it just grows and grows quietly and then leaves you with the lingering impression of the beauty of St-Julien.

The plum, chocolate and orange-peel aromas and flavors are all so attractive, and the tannins are creamy and bright with a medium velvety texture and a fine finish. Nice acidity at the end. A blend of 66% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot, 6.5% cabernet franc and 5.5% petit verdot. Very drinkable now but will be better in two or three years.